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Today's quote:

Monday, April 23, 2018

The Lotus Eater

Robert Duncanson's 'Land of the Lotus Eaters' (1861)

 

After having spent so many years in remote and exotic parts of the world, it seems quite prosaic and counter-intuitive (been trying to use this word for some time ☺), and a whole lot of other adjectives to finish up living the last few of them in as pedestrian a place as "Riverbend".

On my drives home along Rangoon's U Wizara Road I used to encounter a tall, European-looking Buddhist monk. He was said to be an Italian who'd come to Burma as a tourist, converted to Buddhism, and never left. I never stopped to talk to him but now wished I had. In what was a sleepy Port Dickson in Malaysia I met a retired British civil servant in a deserted very 'pukka sahib' club. He had come out as a young man and never left.

And there were a dozen more places and a dozen more encounters but it never crossed my mind that perhaps one day I, too, would be old and would need to decide where to retire. In the end, that steamroller they call life simply made the decision for me and here I am at "Riverbend".

And yet I would probably have felt just as much at home in any of the other places I worked and lived in. Well, perhaps not any of them, not in Saudi Arabia or Iran or what's now Namibia, but in some small water-front town in the Maluku Islands or in some small place in Upper Burma.

And so I'm intrigued whenever I read about people, fictitious or not, who have boldly taken the course of their lives into their own hands as did a learned gentleman in Australia in the 1930s who clearly foresaw that a great war was about to break over the world. He had no desire to participate in this foolish war, but he had to conclude from his studies that Europe was going to explode and that the resulting fires would involve Africa and much of Asia. With extraordinary clairvoyance he deduced that Australia, left unprotected because the military men were preoccupied with Europe, would surely become a temptation to Asia and would probably be overrun.

Wishing to avoid such a debacle, he spent considerable time in determining what course a sensible man should follow if he wanted to escape the onrushing cataclysm. He considered flight into the dead heart of Australia, but concluded that although he could probably hide out in that forbidden region, life without adequate water would be intolerable. Next he contemplated removal to America, but dismissed this as impractical in view of the certainty that America would also be involved in the war.

Finally, by a process of the most careful logic, he decided that his only secure refuge from the world's insanity lay on some tropical island. He reasoned, "There I will find adequate water from the rains, food from the breadfruit and coconut trees, and fish from the lagoons. There will be safety from the airplanes which will be bombing important cities. And thanks to the missionaries, the natives will probably not eat me."

Fortified with such conclusions, he studied the Pacific and narrowed his choice of islands to the one that offered every advantage: remoteness, security, a good life, and a storm cellar until the universal hurricane had subsided.

Thereupon, in the late summer of 1939, one week before Germany invaded Poland, this wise Australian fled to his particular South Pacific refuge. He went to the almost unknown island of Guadalcanal --- which, as we now know, saw some of the bloodiest fighting in WWII.

And, if you're a Somerset Maugham reader, you would know of Wilson of whom he writes in his short story "The Lotus Eater":

"Most people, the vast majority in fact, lead the lives that circum-stances have thrust upon them, and though some repine, looking upon themselves as round pegs in square holes, and think that if things had been different they might have made a much better showing, the greater part accept their lot, if not with serenity, at all events with resignation. They are like train-cars travelling forever on the selfsame rails. They go backwards and forwards, backwards and forwards, inevitably, till they can go no longer and then are sold as scrap-iron. It is not often that you find a man who has boldly taken the course of his life into his own hands. When you do, it is worth while having a good look at him."

Go on then, have a good look; read the full story here.


Googlemap Riverbend

 

Sunday, April 22, 2018

Time for another trip into town?

I've always wanted to know: does the light stay on when you close the door?
Here is the 'scientific' answer.

 

Having eaten my way through the fridge's contents, it's about time for another trip into town because all that is left is some American mustard, a jar of olives, and a couple of Cokes which are always there just in case an old mate shows up who on Bougainville used to live on Coke and custard. I'm not mentioning names, Des!

I don't really want to leave the peace and quiet of "Riverbend" and so, in order to delay my trip into town, I'm trying to think what sort of meal I could 'construct' out of a few olives, a dollop of American mustard, and a can of Coke. I did discover a large piece of Elaine*'s home-made fruit cake in the crisper and wonder if I could skip the main course altogether and go straight to dessert. (* Elaine is a friend of the family and the purveyor of 'home-laid' eggs and I'm sure she doesn't mind having her name mentioned in this blog)

If all else fails, I shall scrape a week's stubble off my face, put on a new pair of underpants (and the rest), and mingle with humanity just long enough to grab a few comestibles and "tap and go" through the Woolies' check-out without my pulse rising as they tell me to "Have a nice day".


Googlemap Riverbend

 

Spot the difference!

 

For years I've been wanting to de-clutter. I feel guilty having accumulated so many things but at the time having them gives me immense pleasure, especially when it comes to books. I GOOGLEd for a cluttered library and came up with the above.

For twenty years my clutter was in my head rather than in my hands, as I moved restlessly from place to place with no more than a suitcase. Now the clutter is all too visible. It's everywhere. It's in the books that line the walls and are stacked on tables and which are a clue of who I was and what I found inside their pages while I read them. It's in the paintings on the walls and the stuff on shelves that remind me of some-thing or somewhere or someone. I am my things and my things are me.

It seems that humans have a fundamental need to store memories, values and experiences in objects. Possessing such objects gives them a sense of stability, a sense of self. I think, even if I lived in a beach hut, I would soon pick up interesting bits of driftwood and start a collection.

Consider for a moment people who enter the military or a religious order or are put in prison. They have their personal possessions re-moved to eliminate their uniqueness because possessions define us.

I've just been outside to take a snap of my own library. No, I don't have one of those fancy cameras with a fish-eye lens, so all you can see is one side, the less-cluttered one. Spot the difference!


Googlemap Riverbend

 

Awesome is awful but ...

 

What marks the official start of adulthood is the point at which one becomes annoyed at hearing someone say that something is awesome, when they don’t actually mean that it produces awe.

"How was your weekend?" Awesome. "How did the presentation go?" Awesome. "What did you think about it?" Oh, it was awesome. When something describes everything, it describes nothing. Stop saying it.

However, I am sure you'd be justified to use this awful word after having watched this video clip. I mean, I couldn't even spell a palindrome back-wards as fast as she does 'significantly'.


Googlemap Riverbend

 

Saturday, April 21, 2018

My place in the sun

 

Dust mites dancing in the shafts of sunlight, the slow tick-tock of the clock on the mantelpiece, a cup of tea, a good book, ABC Radio National softly prattling in the background - the peace is palpable. That's my idea of a good time!

Of course, that pillow should be in the bedroom, and that cup of tea should've had its teabag properly disposed of, and what about that crunched-up blanket on the sofa? This will never do!

While Padma is far away in Surabaya, Riverbend is glorious Bachelor Territory and this is my idea of a good time and my place in the sun.


Googlemap Riverbend

 

P.S. And while I celebrate my brief moment of freedom here at River-bend, Padma in Surabaya is celebrating Kartini Day. Each to their own.

 

Friday, April 20, 2018

Saudi calling

 

My phone screen displayed country code 966 - Saudi Arabia! I pressed the button and said, "Marhaba!" I could almost feel the oven heat and the sand blowing in from the desert when a voice said, "Al-salāmu ʿalaykum" (actually, what I heard was " السَلامُ عَلَيكُم ")

Yes, it was Sheikh Abdulhameed. After I had wa-alaikum-salaam-ed him back and added a few more niceties, it was down to business. Or rather, it wasn't because, as he put it, he just wanted to stay in touch with an old habibi - after more than thirty years? -, inquire about my wellbeing and what I was doing, and was I thinking of visiting the Kingdom again.

Visiting Saudi Arabia again? Nothing could be further from my mind, habibi or not habibi. A few more pleasantries; talks about his business past and present; the reforms taking place in the Kingdom; what was happening across the border in the Yemen; his assurance that he would call again; then a final telephonic embrace - both sides of the keypad -, and I was none the wiser why - if there was a why - he had called me.

The art of doing business in Saudi Arabia. Maybe there will be a sequel; maybe there won't. The answer, habibi, is blowing in the desert wind.


Googlemap Riverbend

 

I left too soon!

 

Saudi Arabia's ban on movies is coming to an end, with the premiere of Marvel's superhero film "Black Panther". Saudis will also have public concerts and a fashion week, and women will soon be allowed to drive. What next? Pork chops?

It's all part of Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman's so-called Vision 2030, a blueprint for a more open Saudi Arabia, "one that is open for tourism, business, and less dependent on oil". The 32-year-old crown prince, who was made heir to the throne last year, wants to consolidate his hold on power and appeal to a younger audience, what with the majority of the 32-million Saudi population under 30.

"Black Panther" wouldn't have been my choice of a first movie but still it looks like I left too soon. And just as I was thinking back to Saudi Arabia, by some strange coincidence this email arrived, "Kaif halak? I am Abdul-rahman Abdulhameed Mofarrij could you send your phone number please my dad asked about it."

His dad, Sheikh Abdulhameed, is not known for making courtesy calls, so what does he want? Last time he rang, he offered me a job again at the BDEI office in Avenue Kléber in Paris. What with Saudi Arabia opening up, maybe this time he just wants an old copy of "Debbie Does Dallas".


Googlemap Riverbend

 

Is it already thirteen years ago?

 

Is it already thirteen years ago when I went back to one of my most memorable workplaces? "Why did you go to Thursday Island?" people asked me. "Because it's there", I replied. "But so are your comfortable slippers and the TV remote". Q.E.D., I think.

I may have been struck down with what psychoanalysts refer to as G.T.D.S.B.S. syndrome (* Going to do something a bit silly syndrome - source: Freud, Dreams and the Unconscious, published 1896), or it may simply have been a wish to revisit one of the many odd and fascinating places I used to live and work in - and they don't come any odder than T.I.!

There are two words I don't want to find myself uttering as an old man, and they are "If only ...". If only. We all have our own "if onlys". If only we had studied harder; if only we had stuck with that job ..."

My trip to T.I. back in 2003 was to eliminate one "if only" and to confirm in my own mind that I couldn't have stayed much longer on the island even if my then boss, Cec Burgess, had been less of a crotchety old bastard.

Socrates said that the unexamined life isn't worth living. What he actually said looked something like this:

(to which Plato is said to have replied, "Keep it in the jar with the lid on or it will all dry up!")

Here then is the journal of my journey to T.I. and another examination of my own past: click here.


Googlemap Riverbend

 

Thursday, April 19, 2018

John le Carré couldn't have made it up

 

Gone are the days of the highly respected bank manager as a pillar of society, which was the case when I was a low (and lowly-paid) 'Bank Johnny'. These days a 'bank manager' is little more than a commission-paid salesman who works alongside the bank's so-called 'financial planners' who, despite their impressive-sounding title, may well have been second-hand car salesmen in their previous jobs.

The Royal Commission into Misconduct in the Banking, Superannuation and Financial Services Industry, now under way, makes for gripping viewing of the unscrupulous behaviour perpetrated not by rogue traders and individuals but by whole organisations. I’m watching it for hours, not knowing whether to laugh or cry. They should sell the movie rights.

It has everything: the forensic analysis and youthful confidence of bright QCs like Senior Counsel Assisting Michael Hodge QC working for the grumpy Commissioner Kenneth Hayne AC QC; the hapless and bemused witnesses hung out to dry by their superiors; and a script of lies, deceit and incompetence - click here. (Transcripts, click here. Commentary, click here.)

John le Carré couldn't have made it up.


Googlemap Riverbend

 

Terms of endearment

 

It used to be part of the ambience of certain eateries which also sported Formica tabletops and glass sugar dispensers, but unless it was said by a particularly attractive waitress who leaned low over the table as she refilled my coffee, I've always considered this term of endearment kind of patronizing, to be honest.

And it seems to be increasing along with my age and waistline. Should I take it as a racial slur and report it to the Anti-Discrimination Board? Or should I just leave my scimitar at home?


Googlemap Riverbend

 

Wednesday, April 18, 2018

Today I'm eating "Wednesday"

 

At least that's what it says on the lid. Let's see what it turns out to be when it emerges from the microwave. Padma prepared all my meals and stuck them in the freezer. All I have to do is pick the right day. And today is "Wednesday".

It's a bit like playing my button accordion by numbers which is what I do when I'm not reading a book or listening to the radio. Last night I fell asleep before 'Late Night Live' and only resurfaced during 'Counterpoint' until sleep reclaimed me again sometime during 'Between the Lines' (if you're a fan of Triple J, please note I'm speaking of ABC Radio National).

The good thing about ABC Radio National is that if you missed a broad-cast, you can listen to its podcast the next day as well as its repeat which in the case of 'Late Night Live' is at 4 pm. Listen to it here.
(For all past LNL podcasts, click here)

Oh, and "Wednesday" turned out to be curried prawns. Beats "Tuesday".


Googlemap Riverbend

 

SBS On Demand

 

SBS, Australia's multicultural and multilingual broadcaster, offers free, unlimited streaming of TV shows, films and events. You can watch full-length movies, both Australian 'kultcha' and foreign ones, anytime and free of charge.

Simply go to sbs.com.au and click on "Sign Up" in the top bar. Then sit back, relax and get your popcorn ready, with over 650 films from the big screen available to view for free.

Don't thank me; thank the SBS Team.


Googlemap Riverbend

 

P.S. Just watching "The Young And Prodigious TS Spivet".

 

Tuesday, April 17, 2018

Embracing solitude

 

I've just passed Go, collected Padma's boarding pass, and am set for four weeks of solitude. The trick, of course, is to be happy with and by yourself which requires that you embrace solitude. Without embracing solitude you feel lonely. And to embrace solitude, you have to be in a lonely place, if that makes sense.

I've just been across the bridge and back before embracing today's solitude. All that nodding and waving to people I'm supposed to know but barely do is quite tiring, quite apart from the village getting too busy for my liking what with five 'Open Houses' coming up this weekend.

Is this the last gasp of the real estate boom? We've hardly ever had one, now we have five: 37 Clyde Boulevard, 16 Currowan Street, 10 Runny-ford Road, 1 Runnyford Road and, on this side of the bridge, 2 Thule Rd.

 

2 Thule Road, with a "Price guide $700,000". It must be those four car spaces!

 

And there have been some interesting make-overs, like that cute little corner house built on a steep slope. I admired it in 1992 after I'd bought a building block on an equally steep slope and was looking for inspira-tions. The owner has since gone out on a limb - literally - and doubled it in size. Did I tell you he's a structural engineer? He is; I kid you not.

 

 

And things will keep changing what with the construction of the new bridge due to start next year, and the coming of piped water and sewer-age. They call it progress; I call it a nuisance.

Embracing my solitude, I've locked the gate and moved into the small guest cottage which is so much more compact than the big house. No telephone, no television, enough food for the rest of the week, Mozart, a few books and my computer (how else do you think did I type this?)

Don't call me; I call you!


Googlemap Riverbend

 

Monday, April 16, 2018

In memory of VILLA MAMANA

Jan and Dave of SY HARMONICA toasting the end of
another day in Paradise on the island's northern spit

 

My involvement with VILLA MAMANA on Telekivava'u goes back to 2006 when I met the Austrian Horst Berger who had made Tonga his home in 1995 and briefly 'house-sat' VILLA MAMANA for the original owner Joe Altenhein.

I never made it to Telekivava'u but reading a blog I had written about Horst Berger, its original owner Joe contacted me in early 2012 - see here - and in 2013 an email arrived from its new owner Matt - see here.

 

GOOGLE Map

 

In the meantime, many yachties had already made landfall at VILLA MAMANA, including Jan and Dave Hutchinson from Calgary in Canada:

 

Dave and Jan on the northern spit of Telekivava'u with Fetokopunga in background

Caretaker Steve Gates on left; Dave on right

 

As they wrote in October 2005 in their logbook aboard SY HARMONICA: "The clearest water we found was probably off the 'resort island' of Telekivavau. The term 'resort island' could be misleading since the last guest checked out nearly six months earlier. A caretaker lives there on his own and takes care of the lovely building and keeps the grass lawn cut. He (Steve from Hawaii) seemed glad to have company for the two days we spent anchored inside his reef and twice he joined us for supper on board Harmonica, and we joined him for sunset drinks on the north beach where we could watch the large flying foxes (fruit bats) desperately flapping from one island to the next, and the frigate birds harassing boobies for food."

 

Dave and Steve outside VILLA MAMANA

The Villa Mamana is situated on deserted Telekivava'u Island in the South Seas last kingdom, the Kingdom of Tonga, 37 nautical miles south of Pangai with its regional airport. This almost untouched part of Polynesia offers all the lonely island cliché could suggest: crystal clear waters, rich marine life, lush tropical vegetation, an authentic culture, and absolute peace of mind. The Villa (built in 1999) is right at the white beach and the shallow lagoon which surrounds the island. 3000 sq/ft of villa hold 2-1/2 bedrooms with ensuite marble bathrooms, the great room, two huge decks (which become part of the great room with the french doors opened), and a porch. All facing west to ensure beautiful sunsets over the warm South Pacific Ocean. High ceilings, wooden floors, teak furniture, and the light reflecting from the lagoon give the colonial style building its special charm. Amenities include: TV, VCD, stereo, satellite phone, fans, washer, workshop, fishing gear, etc. Further down the beach you will find the kitchen house of 700 sq/ft (fully equipped) with a studio, and a smaller house (500sq/ft) which is ideal as caretaker quarter. Included in sale are also a 40ft motor yacht, a 27ft gamefishing power boat, a runabout, and utilities like two diesel gensets, two inverters, two battery banks, solar panels, desalination system, watertank and much more. For photos, click here.

VILLA MAMANA already looking a little worse for wear

Steve and Dave

Dave leaning in entrance to cookhouse

 

Steve was the longest-serving caretaker - where is he now? - with a few more doing shorter stints, including a couple from Germany who pre-tended to live on a desert island and wrote a book about it - see here.

Alas, by 2015 the dream had died - see here - and all that's left of VILLA MAMANA are memories which I'm trying to keep alive by collecting stories and pictures of what the Lonely Planet Travel Guide once described as "the most exclusive and beautiful accommodation in Tonga".

 

 

Dave and Jan were kind enough to send me the above photos. As Dave wrote, "Yes, we did anchor at Telekivavau in 2005 and it was one of our highlights. We don't have many photos of the house, and only went inside once. My memory is of some beautiful solid wood furniture which looked lovely, but had already been eaten through by burrowing bugs. Some of these photos were taken by Steve. He was missing western company when we arrived, and was excellent company. We had a glass of wine on the northern spit most evenings and watched as the flying foxes returned for the night. I am sorry to hear that the place has been 'looted' but am not entirely surprised."

I think I do what Steve, Jan and Dave did and have a sunset drink on Riverbend's jetty this evening and raise a toast to a wonderful dream.


Googlemap Riverbend

 

Wrote Matt Muirhead, the owner: "Dear Peter, thank you for tying a ribbon around what Telekivava’u was. Seeing the pictures brought back a flood of wonderful memories. The white powdery sands that would move around the island with the full moon cycles. The feelings that isolation brought and surfing world-class waves right out the front door. When I retire from full-time work I will write a few words that might give a glimpse to those who long for a far-away paradise."

Wrote Joe Altenhein, the original owner and creator of VILLA MAMANA, a very long time ago: "We all had the best time of our lives on the island, and will always miss it - unless we find another island and build a 'Villa Mamana Lite' just for us."

And here's VILLA MAMANA after cyclone Ian had struck in late 2014: