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Today's quote:

Saturday, May 16, 2026

"What took you so long?"

 

 

Many years ago, I had built this bench and the boards on its seat had slowly rotted away. Today, while I was raking up the fallen leaves, I replaced them with a few bits of Merbau I had lying around. Proud of my handywork, I showed it to Padma. "What took you so long", was her instant reply.

Which is exactly what my Arab boss said to me more than forty years ago when I telexed him in Jeddah from my office in Greece to proudly tell him that I had just discovered a long-forgotten transaction in which another commodity trader had short-changed him by a million dollars - well, nine-hundred-and-eighty-thousand-and-a-bit dollars which by the time we got it back plus interest had grown to over a million dollars.

His reply, "What took you so long?", wasn't what I had expected, seeing that this was a trade which had not occurred on my watch but well before I had even joined him in April 1982. A "Treuhandgesellschaft" in Switzerland had been in charge of his trades at that time, and they had allowed it to fall between the cracks. Very annoyed, I told him over the phone that I was resigning, and hung up. Hours later, he phoned back to ask if I had calmed down. I told him I had but that I was still leaving.

And so I did, on the 1st of April 1985. The significance of that day only became apparent to me after I had returned to Australia and realised that I had cut off my nose to spite my face. I had allowed my pride and ego get the better of me to give up the best job I have ever had. Not only had I earned the most money I had ever been paid for my work but it had also given me the greatest job satisfaction I had ever enjoyed — until that moment when he had asked me, "What took you so long?"

(Two years later, his brothers offered me my own office in the Banque Des Echanges Internationaux's building on Avenue Kléber in Paris but by then I'd grown tired of the fickleness of Arabs and declined the offer.)

All this came back to me as I sat there on my newly-fixed bench.

 


Googlemap Riverbend

 

Only the Wayback Machine shows the way back

 

Click here

 

I discovered Banjar Hills Retreat in the foothills of northern Bali in 2006, and I've visited it ever since. Often I was the only guest staying in one of its four beautiful bungalows. Just me and a few good books and fine food and drinks in total peace and privacy!

 

Click here for a look at Banjar Hills Retreat on GOOGLE Map

 

The retreat had changed hands a couple of times and was bought by a bunch of Australians from Canberra at about the time I discovered it. They were absentee owners who found it difficult to make the place pay its way, so when in early 2014 a German couple offered to lease it from them for two years, with an option to buy, they quickly accepted.

 

 

The German couple, all starry-eyed, explained on their since-gone-off-the-air website how they had always wanted to turn their back on Germany and how they had immediately fallen in love with Bali and Banjar Hills Retreat and how they wanted to stay forever (I saved the German text here).

 

 

Nothing is forever because less than two years later, in early 2016, they handed back the keys and returned to Germany. Their farewell message, written in German, read:

"DANKE BALI......

So, nun heisst es Abschied nehmen von Banjar Hills in Bali. Zwei Jahre hier zu sein, war eine tolle Erfahrung. Schönes Wetter, tolle Landschaft, ständig lächelnde, freundliche Menschen, leckeren Fisch u.a., sprich das, was uns in Deutschland oft fehlt. Dennoch möchte ich hier auch nicht verschweigen, dass das 'Urlaubsfeeling', dass man zu Beginn hat, sich überraschend schnell verflüchtigt und es auch hier einen 'Alltag' gibt. Und plötzlich gibt es auch hier Stromrechnungen, Verkehrspolizisten und Behördengänge.... Ich möchte diese Erfahrung nicht missen, doch man merkt schon in sehr vielen Dingen, dass man mit Deutschland und auch seiner (Heimat)Kultur enger verbunden ist, als man es sich eingestehen möchte. Und ich möchte betonen, dass entgegen allen Gemeckers in Deutschland unser Land SO viele Vorzüge gegenüber so vielen anderen Ländern besitzt z.B. Gesundheitssystem, Bildung, soziale und rechtliche Sicherheit, Sicherheit im Allgemeinen (ja, immer noch), Entfaltungsmöglichkeiten, Chancengleichheit, um nur einige zu nennen. Wenn man dann, wie hier, in andere Kulturen eintauchen kann und an der Basis die Sorgen und Nöte der Menschen mitbekommt, muss ich feststellen, dass sich diese im Prinzip kaum von denen der unseren unterscheiden. Auch hier wollen die Menschen nur ein glückliches Leben mit ihren Familien führen, ihre Kinder gesund und mit Bildungschancen aufwachsen sehen, ihren Platz und ein Zuhause finden ..... Was wir aber lernen können, ist, dass auch ein 'einfaches' Leben glücklich machen kann, sprich, dass es nicht viel bedarf, um Glück zu empfinden. Die Hilfsbereitschaft untereinander und gegenüber Fremden(!) hier, der Zusammenhalt von 'Familie', Leichtigkeit zu leben und - vor allem - jedem Menschen erst einmal mit einem FREUNDLICHEN LÄCHELN zu begegnen ...... all das sind Dinge, die ich hier lernen konnte und hoffe, sie nicht zu vergessen.

Am Ende ist halt nichts für ewig, so auch nicht Bali. Doch nichts wird mir das nehmen können, was wir hier gelebt und erfahren haben .... ausser vielleicht irgendwann die Demenz (lol). Und ich bin dankbar dafür ....... Danke Bali !!"

For those few of you who were not invaded and therefore don't speak German, let me translate the gist of it into what used to the Queen's English but is now again the King's English but without his boring voice:

"The time has come to say goodbye to Banjar Hills Retreat. It's been two years and a beautiful experience. Beautiful weather, beautiful scenery, beautiful fresh seafood, friendly, smiling people - in short, everything Germany is not. And yet, we were surprised how fast our initial holiday mood was replaced by the monotony of everyday life as we had to deal with utility bills, traffic police, and government bureaucracy ..."

 


Click here for more photos

 

And they continued, "... We wouldn't have missed this experience for the world but have to admit that there are many things that still tie us to Germany: its culture, excellent health care, stable social and legal system, boundless opportunities - to mention just a few. What we have learned from our Bali experience is that people the world over want the same: happiness for themselves and their children, a fair chance to get ahead, and a safe place they can call home. We also learnt that even a simple life can bring happiness, and that a sense of family and helping each other and meeting even strangers with a friendly smile are more important than material possessions. We've learned all this in Bali and we hope we won't forget it. Nothing is forever, not even Bali, but no one can take away our wonderful memories. Thank you, Bali, and goodbye!"

 

 

The Australian owners have since decided to close it down which comes as a bit of a personal loss to me. After having serendipitously found it all those years ago, I had come to regard it as my own piece of Bali.

 

Just reading books, looking at the sky, listening to the song of birds ...

... taking a swim at any hour of the day or night in the pool
(or in the ocean which is a short, death-defying bejak-ride away)...

... or enjoying an hour-long massage by my favourite masseuse, Ketut Anggreni (for the equivalent of a minibar Coca-Cola). Leisure with a capital L - a slob's holiday!

 

Nothing is forever! What's left of this beautiful dream is three captures - just three! - of an old website full of hope on the Wayback Machine!

 


Googlemap Riverbend

 

Thursday, May 14, 2026

I seem to have come full circle!

 

 

The four Yorkshiremen did it tougher but not by much. As a kid in post-war Germany I didn't even have my own bed. Mine was one of those folding beds which I unfolded in the living room after the last one had gone to bed, and which I had to fold up as soon as the first one was up again.

I had my own room of sorts after I left those crammed quarters in my mid-teens. They were cheap rented rooms, often the least desirable in other people's houses, as I followed my work, first around Germany and then around the world. There was the six-berth cabin on my six-week voyage to Australia; the migrant hostel at Bonegilla; then a boarding-house in Canberra where I occupied a share-room because a share-room was cheaper; then company housing of various standards in New Guinea, including construction dongas on the huge Bougainville Copper Project; then the AIR NIUGINI mess hall in Moresby and a company house in Lae.

I thought I had reached the top in Honiara where I lived a gracious life in a big house on Lengakiki Ridge overlooking Honiara and the ocean beyond, all the way to Savo Island and Tulagi, but things got even better in Rangoon in Burma where I was the sole occupant of a rambling old colonial house with five domestic servants anticipating my every wish.

Then another company house in Moresby and another one on Thursday Island, followed by living in the TUSITALA Hotel in Apia before moving into the historical Eastern & Oriental Hotel on Penang's waterfront.

In Saudi Arabia it was back to just one room but a very big one in a five-star hotel with its own ensuite, followed by the same in the SAVOY Hotel in Piraeus in Greece, before I grew tired of hotel food and room service and demanded my own apartment overlooking the blue Aegean Sea.

Finally, back in Australia I moved into my own four-bedroom-with-ensuite house in Canberra, and then, in retirement, into this rambling big two-storey mansion at "Riverbend" which is far too big for just the two of us, and far too difficult to heat during the recent cold snaps.

The solution? Move into the smallest bedroom, kept as warm as toast by an electric oil heater, with a light to read my books by, a radio to listen to ABC Radio National, and the internet to keep in touch with the world.

I seem to have come full circle!

 


Googlemap Riverbend

 

Brian Frank Darcey - 9 August 1928 - 14 May 2018

 

Brian beside his yacht TEKANI II at Yorkeys Knob marina in Cairns

 

We met the last time in 2011 when I stayed on his yacht TEKANI II while securely moored inside Yorkeys Knob marina north of Cairns. Seven years later he passed away, just three months short of his 90th birthday.

 

Obituary

"Our much-loved father Brian Frank Darcey passed away peacefully in his sleep. Widower to Ivy; elder brother to Gwen and Gilbert; father to Susanne, Judith, Belinda and Frank; grandfather to Janna, Jackson, Skye, Jasmine and Gryffyn; great-grandfather to Bowie, Violet, Finn, April and Noah; and uncle to Debbie, Robyn, Peta, Linda, Helen and Prue, he was 89 years young. Brian was raised in Perth and the family moved to Melbourne in 1949. In 1951, he moved as a young man to Sydney, where he met Ivy, and married her in 1955 before relocating permanently to T.P.N.G. shortly after; initially to Port Moresby for 1 year; then to Rabaul, where all 4 children were born; and later in 1971 to Kieta on Bougainville. The Darceys officially left PNG in 1978 for Australia and moved to Cairns, Far North QLD.

Brian worked initially in Rabaul for D.C.A. and H.Green & Co. but soon established his and Ivy’s own business B.F.Darcey & Co., buying and selling cocoa, copra, timber, crocodile skins, bêche-de-mer, and shell to buyers in Europe. They were also Providor agents for Bougainvlle Copper mine, during the initial exploratory period. The offices were located above the Newsagents on Mango Avenue in Rabaul and in Toniva, Bougainville. For some years during the 1960s he was Chairman of the Rabaul Town Council (R.A.T.C.) and also a commercial Representative of the Australian Navy in New Guinea. It was in this decade that he established and planted the Rabaul Orchid Park at the base of Namanula Hill – with physical assistance from his four young children – which still flourishes today.

As the business grew in Toniva, a variety of sidelines —a dress shop, jewellery, and perfume— were added to the mix, along with an increasing number of genuine artifacts, collected by Dad on his many flights in and out of remote areas to source agricultural products. And let’s not forget the legendary ‘Buin Lodge,’ purchased to give Dad somewhere to sleep on his frequent trips to Buin, and then to accommodate tourists willing to brave a 4-wheel drive ‘safari’ from Kieta to the Southern tip of the island. But without a doubt, his favourite destination was Fead Islands (Nuguria Atoll) and Malekolan, the family home of his closest friend, Graeme Carson. It didn’t take much of an excuse to detour out there en route between Kieta and Rabaul. Many happy hours were spent supervising the constant running repairs of Graeme’s outboard engines, while nursing a cold beer, followed by the obligatory dose of ‘snake-bite medicine’ (whiskey).

The artifacts were to become a mainstay of the business in later years. His vast library included many volumes on Oceanic Art and Exploration. His keen interest in Pacific art combined with his ongoing research resulted in him being recognised by international museums as a leading authority on Melanesian Art. Brian staged exhibits of curated genuine Melanesian artifacts in England, Germany and New Zealand, and facilitated exchanges with several museums, including London’s British Museum.

A Latin scholar, he was always a keen linguist, in his final week he was speaking French for over an hour in his nursing home room, much to the astonishment of the nurses. He quickly learnt Polis Motu as a young Skipper working in the Papuan Gulf and mastered Tok Pisin in Rabaul. Classical music was his passion. He enjoyed opera, admired and followed Joan Sutherland throughout her illustrious career. As a graduate, his first ‘job’ of any note was as a radio announcer/disc jockey in Perth. Horticulture, particularly orchids was another lifelong interest.

Boats and aircraft were his obsession but his real love was sailing. His 1st boat ‘Leeuwin‘ was a small 12 foot plywood dinghy, which he built himself during 1949-50 in the family garage, over the course of a year and then learned to sail in Melbourne’s Port Philip Bay. The sale of this little boat allowed him to purchase a BSA Bantam motorbike, which he rode north to Sydney. During his 20s, between multiple stints as a labourer’s assistant in Sydney, he built a small steel hull ketch with two male friends, over two years on a vacant block in La Perouse. During this period, Brian also twice finished the Sydney-Hobart yacht race, as crew. The yacht ‘Kylie’ was launched in Botany Bay and her maiden voyage was to sail around into Sydney harbour. Shortly afterwards ‘Kylie’ and her young three crewmen set off to circumnavigate New Zealand before returning via New Caledonia, and Lord Howe Island to Sydney Harbour, where she was sold on a year later. She remains afloat today! This bold approach— find first, train later—was to become a signature pattern throughout his life.

At age 27, Brian had completed his basic Ship’s Master certificate and went to work for the Steamships Trading Company in post-war Port Moresby as a newly-qualified Commercial Skipper, with his new bride. The ‘Doma’ was his vessel, a sturdy coastal workboat that sailed the routes all around the Gulf of Papua, the Sepik River, the Torres Strait, the Papuan coast and the Coral Sea. You can read Dad’s highly entertaining account of his first days in PNG at "Seventy years ago in New Guinea".

The position of ‘Sea Rescue Boat Operator’ for the active Marine Base in Simpson’s Harbour in 1956, working with the Catalina flying boat service proved too great an opportunity to resist for the young couple and they relocated to Rabaul. ‘Arsover’ was the small plywood ‘Sailfish’ class dinghy that he also built in Rabaul that provided the young family with many, many wonderful weekend hours of pleasure and racing at Takumbar Sailing Club in the 1960s.

 

 

In 1970, at age 40 he decided that their business required more flexible transport schedules and routes than the commercial airlines could supply. After purchasing his 1st aircraft in early 1970 in Sydney, he then proceeded to take an intensive 1-month pilot’s training course at Bankstown Airport in that single-engine Piper Cherokee 160 ‘MSC’. Having qualified he then flew the small 4-seater plane northwards along the Eastern Seaboard and back to Rabaul taking one week, accompanied by his friend, decorated former NZ Airforce pilot Adam Anderson, a well-known commercial charter pilot in New Guinea at that time. A 2nd single-engine Piper Cherokee, this time an upgraded Model 180 ‘PWD’ replaced the former aircraft. After some years flying regularly, Brian surrendered to Ivy’s pleas for him to upgrade to a ‘safer’ plane. Again, he flew down to Australia where he sold the Cherokee and purchased a twin-engine Piper Aztec as the replacement, taking the requisite additional lessons, to successfully qualify for his ‘twin conversion’ pilot’s license at Archerfield Airport before making the return flight from Brisbane to Kieta in his larger plane, reregistered as ‘BFD’. In the ‘Darcey family-friendly’ 6-seater Aztec, he was able to fly both farther and faster between PNG, the Solomon Islands and Australia. Brian flew a total of 3,700+ hours in fixed-wing aircraft and only surrendered his pilot’s license many years later, long after the sale of the plane and after he’d been sailing again for a while.

After ‘going finish’ from PNG it wasn’t long before he bought ‘Nyalin’, a modest yacht that would see much ocean mileage under his helm in the following years, much of it spent exploring the Great Barrier Reef in detail. After several years of cruising about the Coral Sea, Brian and Ivy commissioned a new Arends-33 model yacht from the yacht builder in WoyWoy, NSW, with a customised (much-improved) interior layout designed by Ivy who was, by now, also an experienced cruising sailor. ‘Tekani’ was launched in 1984 and sailed many, many blue-water nautical miles, including an emotional journey back to PNG and the Solomon Islands, visiting all the familiar places and faces along the way. In his 70s, he worked as a commercial skipper of both the 35 metre ‘Altlantic Clipper’ charter yacht, and the ‘Ocean Spirit’ catamaran tourism boat operating out of Cairns.

Recovering from a successful battle with cancer, Brian at age 74 resolved to ‘get back out there’ once he was declared a Remission case. This time he took up non-engine Gliding, taking his qualifying lessons in Charters Towers and membership later at the Gliding Club in Dululu, QLD. He was astonished at the thrill that gliding gave and habitually went there twice a year, for ‘a month of fun’ as he called it. His last solo gliding flight was on his 80th birthday. ‘Bougainville Blue’ was the novel he published in 2008, an allegory based on the political situation in Bougainville prior to the Civil War there, which was critically well-received. In 2010, Brian aged 82 purchased his final yacht, a Ketch SouthCoast 36, renamed as ‘Tekani II’. This beauty was a comfortable floating home for him for the last years, leisurely sailing solo along the Eastern Seaboard.

For us, his children, his values were very clear. Respect for the individual, privacy, and the elderly; kindness with the sick; lead by example; and adherence to the Rule of Law. He was against physical violence as a solution to any dispute. He was a dependable husband and a responsible parent who was determined to provide a stable, safe home for his family. He valued life experiences and learning above academia although his belief that as parents, they ought to provide for the best education that we children each strived for, was a strong motivational force for him in matters of business. Content in his own company, he was known to many but friend of a select few. Those who were fortunate to know him as a friend, experienced his deep loyalty and wide generosity. An avid reader, feminist, environmentalist and outspoken advocate for justice, his most marked characteristics were his curious intellect and his fierce independence.

Here is a poem he identified with:

 

 

A staunch atheist, his instructions were for ‘an unattended cremation’, no service at all. He firmly believed “Life is for the living.” Raise a glass in his memory."

 

Which is what I will do on this 8th anniversary of his passing away.

A life well lived!

 


Googlemap Riverbend

 

P.S. You may also wish to read Farewell to New Guinea, Seventy years ago in New Guinea, and Bougainville Blue.

 

Sunday, May 10, 2026

Seven minutes to midnight

 

 

When at seven minutes to midnight on Friday I received a message full of wrong spellings from an old friend who is a stickler for correct spelling because he knows that I am a stickler for correct spelling, I knew that there was something wrong.

I immediately texted back, "OH NO!!! What shocking news!!! It's just on midnight and my phone makes a noise and then this! I tell Padma tomorrow morning and we come up to see you. Hang in there, mate. This is just so terrible to hear. We all know the old man will come one day, but when it happens, it's too much of a shock. You'll never be forgotten, mate! You lived a good life, and you have many friends."

My friend and I had worked for the ANZ Bank in the 1960s, I for just two years; he for the rest of his working life. If that made him an ordinary man, he was an extra-ordinary man who defied convention in many other ways. In recent years, having both battled with cancer, a strong bond had developed between us and we had been in regular contact.

 

Ready to leave "Riverbend"

 

We "saddled up" very early on Saturday morning for the long trip to Wollongong. For someone who used to relocate from a job in Samoa on a Saturday to start the next one in Malaysia on a Monday morning, to call a 200-km trip 'long' seems silly, but that's what old age does to you.

 

From Batemans Bay (red dot) to Wollongong (grey dot)

 

We popped in at our friends' Chinese restaurant just across from the Bomaderry railway station, where we received a hearty welcome and a light lunch over heavy discussions about the current state of the world.

 

 

Then on we drove for the next hour to arrive at the hospital to find our way to my friend's private room. For years we had planned a road trip to Bonegilla where he had done his National Service and, after the former army camp had been turned into a makeshift migrant reception centre, I had spent my first two nights in God's Own Country. My suggestion that I had come to pick him up for our long-planned trip evinced only a tiny smile from him, as he was highly sedated with painkillers. We spent several hours reminiscing and making light of what was a sad situation.

 

Published with the family's permission

 

We left just in time to snatch the very last vacancy at our favourite motel at Figtree, where we were known from many previous visits.

 

www.solomoninn.com.au

 

We were back inside the hospital the following morning, but what a difference one night makes! My friend had deteriorated to the point of no longer recognising me and being even more highly sedated than the day before. Out of respect to him and his family, I took no more photos and I must confess I left in tears. Perhaps the doctors' prognosis was right. Perhaps it is only seven minutes to midnight for my old friend.

 


Googlemap Riverbend